MEC on-board

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The Latok II-3/4 Expedition has received gear and funding support from Mountain Equipment Co-op.

About the Expedition

In ‘04 and ‘05, Americans and Slovaks (respectively) established two new routes—each over 90 pitches in length—on the southwest side of Great Trango Tower of Pakistan. These hold the distinction of being the longest rock climbs in the world. Several valleys away and just east of Latok II is a sub-peak—“Latok II¾”—whose southwest face is comparable in length and perhaps exceeds Great Trango in steepness; yet Latok II¾ remains unclimbed, its flanks untouched.

While Latok II¾’s southwest face ranks among the taller rock walls in the world, it has remained unattempted for at least two reasons. First, the nearby summit of Latok II stands 600m higher, magnetizing the eye-gaze of the “altitude junkie”; what Latok II¾ loses in summit altitude, it makes up for in length and steepness. (As a side note, we believe that some of the best unexplored alpine terrain can be found nearby and below the world’s more famous mountains.)

The second reason why Latok II¾ has yet to see its first visit is that many are probably daunted by the challenges of tackling a rock twice the size of El Capitan, and doing so in the rarefied air above 5000m. Perhaps this second reason is more so a “problem” than it is a “reason”. How does one go about climbing 1700m of steep rock at high altitude? Some would argue that a wall of that magnitude and complexity is best tackled with a correspondingly large and tactically involved style—The Siege. (It goes without saying that we would consider no such pedantry.)

For inspiration, we turn to a quote by Einstein: “The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them.” Analogously, we intend to “solve” the “problem” of Latok II¾ not with a hefty and complicated attack, but instead by implementing a quick and equipment-thrifty charge. We will address the enormity of the endeavor not with more stuff, but with less of it. However, we do plan on bringing an extensive “mental rack”, with doubles in commitment and inspiration. For us, Latok II¾ presents but a stage (mind you, a big one); it is the dance that gives it personal significance.

It would be convenient if we could say that our (proposed) style of ascent is novel; in our minds, however, the recent ascents of Great Trango epitomize what it means to climb elegantly. The Americans and Slovaks took a minimum of equipment and spent between 4 and 7 days on their climbs. It is our intent to mimic (as best we can) the exceptional quality of ascent of those teams—fast, light, and clean.

Our proposed objective can be described in rough terms as involving two parts. The lower part is characterized by a moderate-angle rock slab. We anticipate being able to free most or all of it, simul-climbing whenever possible. The southern facing aspect of the wall should keep cracks relatively snow-free, which will hopefully speed progress and allow us to reach the gendarme by the end of the first day (see attached photo). The upper part of the objective follows a series of narrow ridge crests before being stopped at what appears to be a steep headwall. From a distance, this would appear to be the crux of the line. At its top, a ramp cuts to the right into a chimney system, which in turn leads to corners and more broken terrain below the summit ridge. Being both at higher altitude and of steeper angle, we anticipate that we will require up to 5 days to “get the rope up” the segment from the gendarme to the summit ridge. When the difficulties approach the limits of what we are capable, we will focus our efforts and speed our team by having the seconds follow on ascenders. Having previously scouted the descent, we will rap into the col with Latok II and downclimb and rappel the ice couloir below the 1997 route.

Context and History.

The Panmah Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram contains the world famous Ogre and Latok peaks, forming a tight cluster of towering mountains of rock and ice. Their rocky flanks have continually attracted tough climbers, providing the stage for legendary Alpine adventures. But climbing in the Panmah Muztagh is never easy and no one walks away with a straightforward ascent. As one example, the still-unclimbed north ridge of Latok I (7145m) was first attempted in 1978 by an American team comprised of Jim Donini, Jeff and George Lowe, and Michael Kennedy. After 26 days and some 100 pitches of rock and ice climbing, Jeff became ill with altitude symptoms; the team retreated. Since then, the line has seen over a dozen attempts, none of which have been successful.

It was the year before the American attempt on Latok I that one of the greatest of all mountaineering epics was played out on the first ascent of the Ogre (a.k.a. Baintha Brakk; 7285m). While making the first rappel from the summit, Doug Scott (U.K.) lost control, swung wildly, and broke both of his ankles. With the assistance of his teammates, Chris Bonnington and Nick Estcourt, Scott crawled for 7 days to reach base camp.

Our interest is in the vicinity of the southwestern ramparts of Latok II. Latok II has seen four ascents (’77, ’96, ’97, ’06) by three routes. First, a large Italian team led by Arturo Bergameschi sieged the Southeast Ridge in 1977. This route was repeated in 2006 by Americans Doug Chabot, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson; in doing so, they made the first alpine style ascent of the peak. Second, the Huber brothers (Germany) failed on the west face but settled for the Northwest Ridge in 1996. Latok II’s third and most recent new route involved the Huber brothers as well. Returning the next year (1997), along with Toni Gutsch and Conrad Anker, they succeeded on the steep West Face. Anker describes their objective as being like “El Cap stacked on top of Denali”. The team climbed the grade VII big wall in 26 pitches to 5.10c and A3, naming it “Tsering Mosong” (meaning “Long Night” in Balti).

Approach and Logistics.

Weather permitting, we will fly from the capital of Islamabad to Skardu (otherwise, we will travel by road for 2 days along the dreaded Karakoram Highway), where we will arrange for food and base camp equipment. Next, we will hire a jeep for a 5-hour drive to the road-head in Askoli Village, where we will hire porters. The hike to base camp involves walking up the Bradlu River towards K2 (for one day) before diverging onto the Biafo Glacier (for two more).

Our approach from North America to base camp will require approximately 10 days. We will then spend approximately 3 weeks in and above base camp before reversing the process. Thus, our expedition will last about 6 weeks, beginning in early July 2007.

Meet the Team

Jeremy Frimer (29) is PhD student at the University of British Columbia in Vancouver. Jeremy's passion and particular strength is on technical terrain at high altitude, with several significant first ascents to his credit. He has made six expeditions to Alaska and the St. Elias; his most impressive accomplishment being his 2002 first ascent of Orion Spur on Mt. Logan (5959m: IV, 3500m). For context, this was the first independent new line on Canada's highest peak since 1979, and was pulled off in lightweight Alpine style. In South America, Jeremy has climbed extensively in Peru's Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash. He made the first ascent of the south face of “Touching the Void” famous Siulá Grande by his 2001 route Southern Discomfort (ED1: 80˚, 800m). Then in 2002, he made an attempt on the northwest face of Nevado Ulta (5875m), retreating one pitch from the summit ridge. The line has since been completed, becoming Personal Jesus (ED2: 5.9, M7, 1000m). In 2005, Jeremy traveled to the Trango Valley of Pakistan, where he succeeded in making the first ascent of Severance Ridge (ED2: 5.11, A2, M5, 1600m) on Trango II (6327m). The 65-pitch rock climb was made in pure alpine style over the course of five days, the last two of which were without food. This past summer, Jeremy traveled to India, where he made the first ascent of Gateway Ridge (TD-: 5.9, 1100m).

Kelly Franz (29) is an environmental technologist living in Squamish, B.C. Kelly has been climbing for 14 years, during which time he has sampled many different types of climbs. He has climbed ice routes in the Canadian Rockies as hard as WI6; mixed routes to M8; and he has also on-sighted 5.11d traditional and 5.12b sport climbs in North America. Kelly's alpine tour has lead him through Alaska, B.C., California, and Africa. In Alaska (along with partner Ken Glover) he climbed Mount Hunter in single 21-hour push via the West Ridge (III+) and Mount Thunder via Deadbeat (WI5, M6). In addition, the team attempted an unclimbed rock ridge on the 3500' south face of Mt. Thunder. After climbing for 2½ days, they retreated when food and energy stores were finally depleted. In B.C., Kelly made the first ascent of The Real McKim (V 5.10+R, 13p) on Mt. Sleese. Kelly has also on-sighted long trad routes in Red Rocks (Levitation 29 (5.11), Cloud Tower (5.11+)) and climbed in Yosemite (Lost Arrow Spire Tip, solo, El Cap's West Ridge). Other memorable ascents include Mount Kenya, Mount Waddington, and summers instructing Outward Bound in the High Sierra and North Cascades. Kelly has also climbed in such places as Cuba, Thailand , Spain, South Africa, and Namibia. Kelly recently came up with some dissatisfying results on a super hero/super villian name generator on the internet: Superman and the Riddler were the results to the chagrin of Mr. Franz who would have preferred Silent Bob and Cockknocker.

Sam Johnson (27) is finishing a Masters degree in Social Work in Anchorage, Alaska, working in areas of Alzheimer’s and Mental Health. Sam has been climbing for 10 years, and has developed himself into a solid all-round climber. He has on-sights of 5.10+X trad (with a pack) and 5.11c sport to his credit, as well as first ascents of challenging rock walls in Alaska such as Smaug’s Hoard (IV 5.10 R/X A2). He, along with Jeremy and Jonathon Clearwater, made the first ascent of Severance Ridge in Pakistan (see Jeremy’s bio for details) in 2005. Without question, however, Sam’s forté is on ice and mixed terrain. He is a solid WI6 and M7 leader, having tested himself on some of the hardest ice climbs in the world with over 50 pitches WI6 or harder. These include classics such as Nemesis and Shiva Lingam (Europe, WI6+ R/X). He has soloed many multipitch ice routes to WI5. Sam has applied his passion for, and ability on ice in Alaska on first ascents such as Paikea’s Journey (IV WI4 M5) and Divine Providence (V WI4 M6) in the central Alaska Range. He also holds the distinction of the second ascent of the infamous Diamond Arête on Mt. Hunter (VI AI5 M5), which he made in just over 2 days (including a traverse of the mountain), eclipsing the first ascent time by almost seven days. Finally, Sam attempted a new line on Mt. Aspiring in New Zealand, which featured run-out, powerful mixed climbing to AI5 M7 R. The line was later completed by Brits, becoming 24 Hour Party People (ED2 Scottish VII).


Ryan Hokanson (33) has been climbing for 17 years, during which time he has acquired a diverse and extensive set of skills that make him particularly suited for alpine rock climbing. Ryan has established numerous grade V and VI routes in remote alpine locations, such as The Northwest Passage (VI, 5.9, A3 2400') on Mt. Hooker and The Illness (V, 5.10, A3, 2000') on Wolverine Peak, both in the remote Wind River Mountains of Wyoming. Ryan was also instrumental in opening many waterfall ice and mixed routes in the largely unexplored area of Glacier National Park. This American extention of the Canadian Rockies has yielded Ryan and various partners 10 first ascents grade IV or longer, the most difficult being Holy Moses (IV, WI6, 1000'), and the longest beging the second ascent of Six Pack to the Summit (V, WI4, M5, 3500'), both on the N. face of Edwards Mtn. Ryan has climbed extensively in the Canadian Rockies as well, with ascents of numerous waterfall classics. With a strong upbringing in competitive cycling, areobic fitness and moving fast on alpine terrain are some of Ryan's specialties, and resulted in a 48 hour car to car ascent of the North East Buttress (V, 5.9, 4500') of Howse Peak, and an 17 hour hut to hut ascent of Mt. Alberta's North East Ridge (V, 5.10x, 18 pitches), both last year (2006). Ryan has spent many years climbing and doing expeditions in Alaska, resulting in new routes in the Revelation, Talkeetna and Chugach mountain ranges. Since moving there 3 years ago, he has established at least 20 new pitches of ice and mixed climbing WI5 or M6 and harder, as well as climbing many of the area's classic routes. Ryan recently returned from a trip to Argentina, where he spent 18 days ski kiting on the South Patagonian Icecap, as well as onsighting 6c+ in the same trip! Ryan's other hobbies include ski mountaineering (borderline obsessive), ski kiting, photography and paragliding. Ryan has worked 9 seasons as a full time climbing guide for Jackson Hole Mountain Guides and Alaska Mountaineering School. He has worked the last 4 years as an Intensive Care Unit and Emergency Room Registered Nurse. For more information see Ryan's blog at www.ryanhokanson.blogspot.com

Ken Glover (33) is a geologist from Canmore, Alberta. When not working, Ken is often sleeping. Ken began alpine climbing in 1992 and has been on climbing trips and expeditions throughout Canada and the U.S. with some recent trips to Europe and Alaska. He has achieved on-sights to 5.10+ on traditional rock, WI6 ice, M6 traditional mixed, and grade V aid walls in B.C. and Yosemite. Ken enjoys free soloing ice routes with his favorite being Polar Circus (WI5 700m in 1 hour, 45 minutes). Another of Ken's pastimes is solo backcountry distance running and skiing, having completed several wilderness runs and ski tours of 30+ miles through alpine terrain, all without a single blister. Over 18 days in 2004, Ken climbed in the Alaska Range with Kelly Franz (see Kelly’s bio). Ken has also climbed in the Alps of Italy and France, climbing some WI6 waterfall ice classics as well as several classic ED alpine mixed routes. Ken also has extensive glacier travel and ski experience, having enjoyed many multi-day high-level ski tours in Canada and the Alps, including a circumski of B.C.’s Mt. Waddington with an ascent of the Bravo Glacier route. In October 2006, Ken made the first ascent of a steep ice couloir on an unnamed peak in northern India. He made the ascent solo; as he descended by headlamp at night, the local villagers confused him for being a terrorist. But in truth, he’s not one.